fabric types

Synthetic and natural fibres

Most of upholstery fabrics are man-made (synthetic). Synthetic fibres may be in 100 percent form or blended with other natural or man-made fibres to produce velvet, jacquard, flock, printed cotton, knits and other upholstery materials.

Until the development of synthetic fibres, cloth was woven or knitted from one of the four basic fibres found in nature: cotton, flax (linen), silk or wool. Although man-made fibres also are derived from substances found in nature - wood pulp, petroleum, natural gas and air - the substances are transformed into fibres by chemical engineers who, in the process, give the fibres special characteristics.

Redelman Beacon Hill

Man-made fibres are produced by forcing the thick, syrupy, chemically engineered substance through small holes in a metal plate called a spinneret, which resembles a shower head. This process is called extrusion, and is actually similar to the formation of fibres in nature: the silkworm digests a meal of mulberry leaves and then "extrudes" a strand of silk. Man-made fibres can be extruded from the spinneret in different shapes, depending on the design of the spinneret holes. These different shapes can provide certain qualities. Additives may also be combined with the solution before it is extruded to make the finish fibre flame-resistant, anti-static, sealed-sealed or more durable.

"A rose is a rose is a rose," according to Gertrude Stein. That well-known saying, however, does not apply to upholstery fabrics, which differ widely in colour, weight and texture. Furthermore, all upholstery fabrics are not created equal: they may be woven, knitted, flocked or tufted. They may be constructed on a single fibre, such as nylon or cotton, or they may contain a blend or combination of two, three or four different natural or man-made fibres.

Since customers may be attracted to a particular upholstery fabric because of its colour or pattern, it is important that upholsterers understand the different characteristics of the fibres that comprise the various fabrics. Obviously, it would be unwise to encourage a mother with three small children and a dog to upholster her family room in silk. By helping customers to choose an upholstery fabric that performs well and is suited to their particular lifestyles, the upholsterer can help prevent complaints and ensure customer satisfaction.

All the fibres most commonly used in upholstery fabric offer certain advantages and disadvantages. Manufacturers frequently blend several different fibres together in a single fabric to combine the best qualities of each.

RAYON is the most widely used man-made fibre in upholstery because of its versatility and extensive colour range. It is often blended with cotton, an equally important upholstery fibre. It can be made to resemble cotton, wool or silk. It has a soft feel, absorbs dyes well, offers luster and durability and is fairly resistant to sunlight and wear. Rayon, however, is less resistant than some other fibres to mildew, oil and grease.

NYLON also is widely used for upholstery because of its durability, resiliency and soil abrasion resistance. It is the predominant fibre used for flocked fabrics. This exceptionally strong man-made fibre dyes well and resists fading, but is neither as soft nor as absorbent as some other fibres.

OLEFIN, commonly known as polypropylene, has a softer feel than nylon. It also offers great durability, built-in soil and abrasion resistance, and colour fast-ness. Unlike many other fibres, Olefin must be solution dyed. While this assures lasting colour, it limits the spectrum. Olefin's resistance to mildew makes it practical in humid climates.

ACRYLIC, often used in knits and woven velvets, is soft, lightweight and resistant to sunlight. Because it holds its shape well, it won't bag after continued seating. It also takes colour well and is resistant to chemicals, moths, oils and abrasion. It is, however, neither as durable as nylon nor as absorbent as cotton.

POLYESTER, while not presently a major upholstery fibre, is making inroads in the jacquard or print cloth markets. It is easy to clean, fairly resistant to sunlight and wear, and absorbs dyes well. It offers good drapability, is very durable and resists wrinkles. It, however, is not as resistant to piling, oil and grease or soil as some other fibres. Polyester is also used as a fiberfill - cushioning material for upholstered furniture.

COTTON, a natural vegetable fibre, is an important upholstery fabric both alone and in blends. It is strong, absorbent, offers a nice strong feel, accepts colour well, and has a fair resistance to wear. Cotton is easy to clean, but it wrinkles and soils easily unless it is treated with a fabric protection solution. While cotton is highly resistant to heat, it loses strength in sunlight, has a tendency to yellow and can be affected by mildew.

SILK, is the strongest of the natural fibres, offers luxuriousness, resiliency, good drapability and beauty. It, however, has only fair abrasion resistance, tends to water-spot easily, and is expensive.

WOOL, a luxurious natural fibre that comes from sheep fleece, offers durability, drapability and resiliency. Unless treated, wool can be damaged by moths, and its surface tends to attract dust, bacteria and dirt particles. Like silk, wool is costly, but it is a popular fibre in colder climates.

One of the most important qualities of upholstery fabric is its wearability. A general rule of thumb is " The more threads per inch, the tighter the weave, the longer the wear. " One easy way to check the fabric is to hold it up to the light. The less light that shines through, the tighter the weave. Also, a fabric pattern that is woven or knitted with a colour thread will generally wear better than a pattern that is printed on. Woven patterns will look almost the same on both sides of the fabric, while printed patterns will be pale or nonexistent on the reverse side.

(Adapted from "Types of Upholstery Fabrics" by NADFD)